Debunking "Pore-Clogging" Ingredients

Something that drives me absolutely crazy is the fear around "pore-clogging ingredients”, and the misinformation about it.

No single ingredient automatically makes a product pore-clogging or a breakout waiting to happen. It's not that simple. It's like saying a single spice will ruin a whole dish – it depends on how it's used. The context matters; how is the product formulated, what is the delivery system, are you making a DIY mask from the coconut oil in your baking cabinet???

To understand why this information is so misleading, we need to look at how these ingredients are even tested in the first place.

How Comedogenicity Is Measured (And Why It's Flawed)

Traditionally, comedogenicity ratings are often based on studies conducted with raw, undiluted ingredients applied to rabbit ears. It involves applying a concentrated amount of a single ingredient to the inner ear of a rabbit, chosen because they have a high density of sebaceous glands. Researchers then observe the rabbit ears over a period of time to see if comedones (blackheads or whiteheads) form.

The ingredient is then assigned a comedogenicity rating, typically on a scale of 0 to 5, with 0 being non-comedogenic and 5 being highly comedogenic. The major problem is that this method doesn't reflect how ingredients are used in actual skincare products. We don't (or shouldn’t) apply raw, undiluted ingredients to our faces.The concentration, formulation, and delivery method all play a huge role. This brings us to the real heart of the matter: how a product is actually created.

Formulation & Delivery

The way ingredients are formulated and delivered to the skin matters significantly more than the individual ingredients themselves. 

Formulation refers to the way ingredients are blended, processed, and stabilized in a product. To create a product that is both effective and safe, it must be understood how the ingredients interact with each other. An ingredient that is potentially irritating on its own can be combined with soothing ingredients to minimize its negative effects. 

Delivery refers to how the ingredients penetrate the skin. There are various methods of delivery to optimize ingredient absorption and efficacy, such as encapsulation, fractionation, emulsification, and pH balancing. 

• Encapsulation involves wrapping active ingredients in protective spheres, like liposomes or cyclodextrins, allowing the ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin without causing surface irritation. Retinol, for example, is often encapsulated to reduce its potential for irritation. 

• Fractionation involves breaking down ingredients into smaller, lighter molecules, allowing them to penetrate the skin more effectively without clogging pores. 

  • Take DMK's Herbal Pigment Oil for example…It might sound pore-clogging of the bat, because of the oils and botanical extracts, however the formulation & delivery science is what truly matters. The oils are fractionated and stabilized, allowing them to be absorbed instead of clogged. Also, once applied to the skin, oils undergo a natural liquefaction process, influenced by body heat and the skin’s lipid structure, allowing them to blend and absorb effectively. This is why well-formulated oils don't just "sit" on the skin—they melt, blend, and absorb, working in harmony with the skin’s natural barrier.

• Emulsification is the process of blending oil and water-based ingredients together, resulting in a product with a smooth, even texture and better absorption. 

• pH balancing ensures the product has a pH that is close to the skin's natural pH, which helps to maintain the skin barrier. The entire formula—the ingredient combination, pH level, and texture—determines how a product will affect your skin.

And let's not forget, your skin is unique. What may cause a reaction to my skin might be perfectly fine for your skin. Humidity, your skin barrier, how you apply products—all of these factors play a significant role. Understanding formulation is key, but it’s also equally important to recognize external factors that could contribute to clogged pores.

When a Product Could Be Comedogenic: Understanding the Factors

There are still factors that can make a product more likely to cause congestion:

• Heavy or Occlusive Ingredients: Products with a high concentration of heavy oils, waxes, or silicones can create a barrier on the skin's surface, trapping sebum and dead skin cells. This is more likely to be an issue for those with oily or acne-prone skin.  

• Poor Formulation: Even if a product contains good ingredients, a poor formulation can lead to issues. If the ingredients aren't properly emulsified or stabilized, they can separate or oxidize, potentially clogging pores. This is why it’s so important to use reputable, medical grade skincare, sold directly from trusted estheticians. 

• High Concentrations of Certain Ingredients: While fractionalization and encapsulation can mitigate the risk, high concentrations of certain ingredients, even those generally considered safe, can still cause irritation or congestion for some individuals.

• Incorrect Product for Skin Type: Using a product that is too rich or heavy for your skin type can lead to breakouts. For example, a heavy cream designed for dry skin might clog the pores of someone with oily skin.  

• Lack of Exfoliation: If you're not regularly exfoliating, dead skin cells can build up and contribute to clogged pores.

• Individual Skin Sensitivity: Some individuals have unique sensitivities to certain ingredients, even those that are generally considered safe. It's important to pay attention to how your skin reacts to new products.

It's also crucial to distinguish a true breakout caused by a product, and purging. 

• Purging:

  • Occurs when active ingredients speed up skin cell turnover, bringing underlying congestion to the surface.  

  • Typically appears in areas where you already experience breakouts.

  • Usually subsides within a few weeks (4-6 weeks).

  • Consists of small, uniform bumps or whiteheads.

• Breakouts:

  • Occur when a product clogs pores or irritates the skin.

  • Can appear in new areas where you don't typically break out.

  • Can consist of various types of blemishes, including cysts and inflamed pimples.

Remember, it's always best to consult with an esthetician if you have concerns about specific ingredients or products. With so much misinformation surrounding skincare ingredients, it’s no wonder people turn to readily available apps like Yuka for guidance.

The Yuka App

We need to address the Yuka app and how it ties in to the fear mongering of “pore-clogging” ingredients. It seems like a quick and easy way to assess the safety of your products, but the truth is it's not always accurate, especially for skincare. While it might be useful for a general overview of food products, it has many limitations when it comes to skincare.

Yuka operates on an over-simplified scoring system, categorizing ingredients as "good" or "bad" without understanding the complexities of the science. Just because an ingredient sounds intimidating doesn't mean it's harmful in a well-crafted product. Skincare safety is about dosage, not just ingredients. Yuka might flag something as "bad," but it could be perfectly safe in the small amount used.

It doesn't account for individual skin types, flags safe ingredients, disregards formulation, has a limited database, and doesn't always update with new research. Commonly flagged ingredients like parabens and silicones, which when used at safe levels, are crucial for products - like parabens, a type of preservative that prevents bacterial growth (from your grimey hands dipping in and out of your jar of lotion!).

I put Yuka to the test with DMK's Herb and Mineral Mist. This product, designed to hydrate and balance the skin, received a rating of 19/100. The app flagged propylparaben, mentha piperita leaf extract, and methylparaben.

As I mentioned before, parabens like propylparaben and methylparaben are preservatives that safeguard against bacterial growth—essential for product integrity. But Yuka flags them because of potential concerns raised by studies using concentrations far exceeding those in cosmetics.

In the DMK mist, these are present at regulated, safe levels and with the precise formulation, these parabens work with other ingredients to maintain the product's pH balance and ensure consistent delivery of hydration to the skin.

Similarly, mentha piperita leaf extract, flagged for potential irritation, is used in a carefully controlled concentration to provide a refreshing and toning effect. When applied as a fine mist, the extract's cooling properties are enhanced, and its potential for irritation is minimized. The formulation ensures that the extract is evenly distributed across the skin's surface, preventing localized irritation. Yuka’s algorithm, however, doesn’t distinguish between a raw ingredient and its role within a professional formulation, nor does it consider how the delivery method of a mist impacts the application and absorption of the ingredients. The mist delivery allows for even distribution and quick absorption, enhancing the benefits while minimizing potential drawbacks.

Ultimately, skincare is far too nuanced for a simple app to provide accurate guidance. This highlights the need to move beyond generic recommendations and embrace a more personalized approach.

Officially Debunked

Skincare is deeply personal. What works for one person might cause issues for another, especially with pore-clogging concerns. Don't rely on simplistic apps or fear-mongering lists; they oversimplify formulation and ignore your unique needs. Instead, consult a licensed esthetician.

An esthetician understands that comedogenicity varies. We can assess your skin, concerns, and product formulations, distinguishing pore-clogging culprits from harmless ingredients. We can also clarify purging versus breakouts, preventing unnecessary product abandonment. And we can even tailor a regimen for you, considering lifestyle, environment, and sensitivities.

By choosing personalized care, you invest in understanding your skin and achieving your goals. Your skin deserves a customized approach, empowering you to make informed decisions - free from pore-clogging anxieties and toward healthy, uncongested skin. 

Best,

Maria